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A charming mountain lodge in a faraway place where you least expect it to find such things. Niksar - and the valley of the Kelkit generally - is probably the last undiscovered touring frontier in the country. Ardıçlı is a hill village set high above Niksar, all green and cool and with a splendid view of the valley below. If you happen to be passing by, it is well worth driving the extra 13 kms into this bit of deepest Turkey.

The hosts are an elderly, engaging country doctor and his wife, who does wonders in the kitchen. They have two houses next to each other, built in modern chalet style with a lot of sturdy sense but few traditional touches. Each has four guestrooms sharing one bathroom and a comfortable lounge. A guest is normally given a whole house, so he wont share with strangers.

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