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Alaçatı is more upper class and Çeşme turns into Izmir’s noisy playground in the summer. Ildiri, untouched by concrete, is the most unspoilt village of the Çeşme peninsula and has maintained its peaceful Aegean atmosphere.

This unpretentious and inviting pension set right by the water is run by a resourceful and friendly young woman. The outside of the stone house has been restored to its former Greek glory, but the interior owes more to modern Turkish architecture. The rooms look out to sea and to a series of small islands that can be reached by boat. Don’t miss the mosaics of the ancient city of Erythrai, a 10-minute walk away. Aside from plenty of historical ruins, Ildiri has its own little beach and a few restaurants serving the delicious artichokes and fish famous in the area.

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