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Some 200 houses of the traditional Turkish style line the narrow, cobbled streets of Cumalikizik, a historic village near Bursa that has been declared a national landmark. (It is the only place in Turkey, incidentally, where they grow raspberries.)

Mavi Boncuk Guesthouse is the only accommodation in town - a pair of old village houses which Mr and Mrs Aslan, a retired urban couple, have adopted with the enthusiasm of newfound love. Their houses have few pretensions of class; but they exude rustic charm with their creaky floorboards, satin coverlets and trousseau-style embroideries. There is a wonderful overgrown garden and a village-style open veranda where one can slouch comfortably the whole day. Güner Hanim serves an excellent breakfast full of fresh herbs and good olive oil and homemade bakes. Her homemade noodles (eriste) with walnut sauce is nothing short of a masterpiece.
Mavi Boncuk signifies Blue Bead, the common Turkish talisman that is meant to keep the Evil Eye away.

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