Angora House

[Siyabend]

As the capital of Turkey flaunts its oppressive modernity, few people realise that there is also an Old Ankara - a hilltop citadel girdled by Byzantine walls and strewn with Roman foundations, next to an old bazaar district that rivals the best of Turkey for local colour and local dust. This was a slum for many years; now it is being discovered for what it is, the only part of Ankara that is worth looking into. Several nostalgia-imbued restaurants and antique shops have led the gentrification.

This beautifully re-created period hotel joins them to breathe life into a nostalgic Old Turkish neighbourhood. Ahmet is the remarkably gracious host whom the diplomatic community of the capital has known for many years as their favourite carpet-dealers. He actually demolished his carpet business to build this dream house - a 19th century mansion he renovated with love and a precise feeling for detail. The interior is decorated in warm colours and antique furnishings. The atmosphere is friendly, and full of flattering touches. The breakfast is nothing short of magnificent.

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